A brief history of watchmaking

Far more than a craft, watchmaking is a true art. If you are passionate about it, and the words “barrel,” “manual winding,” and “gears” sound familiar, there is a very good chance this article will interest you.

Fasten your seatbelts, we are about to gently dive into the beginnings of watchmaking.

Contents:

• Time zones and solar energy: the first measurements of time
• From dials to clocks
• From the Renaissance to the dawn of the modern world
• The history of watches and their development since the 20th century

Time zones and solar energy: the first measurements of time

Humankind and Time: it is a story that goes back a long way. How many of us dream of uncover the secrets of this mystery, sometimes to wind it up, sometimes to replace it, whatever the cost.

Inescapable yet neither tangible nor truly visible, its effects are nonetheless undeniable. As our skin wrinkles and our hair turns white, we are forced to acknowledge that time is passing.

Watchmakers and inventors, let’s see how they made one of life’s mechanisms more perceptible.

It will probably come as no surprise if I tell you that it all begins in Ancient Egypt, around the 15th century BC. And that is indeed how far back we must go to find a trace of the very first sundial. This incredible instrument, remarkably crafted, makes it possible to read the passage of the day by following the celestial path of the stars.

After humankind became enamoured with the strange idea of mastering uncontrollable Time, it began designing ever-new mechanisms increasingly sophisticated and increasingly precise, to indicate the progression of day and night.

It was not always easy to wait for the Sun, in addition to warming our bodies, to peek out and bring its light to our sundials so that we could get a more concrete idea of what time it might be.

Then, other objects, such as the clepsydra, also called water clock, made it possible to measure time precisely over short durations without having to rely on solar energy.

From dials to clocks

Even though we now know that it is noon when the sun is at its zenith, people were forced to acknowledge that, however ingenious these mechanisms were, they remained limited because they were entirely dependent, either the energy of the sun, or the measurement of short durations, and not Time in its absolute sense.

The 14th century marked the beginning, with medieval Europe, of fine watchmaking and the invention of timepieces and clocks. With it came the invention and installation of the first astronomical clocks.

A true little revolution: in addition to being informed about the schedules of our days (and often the events linked to social life), we could also estimate how long they lasted. This was the birth of a mechanical vision of the solar system, inspired by Ptolemy's model.

Following this, French, then Swiss, craftsmen sought to develop these systems and reduce their size so they could fit on the tables of high society. The medieval clock would quickly become a prestigious timepiece, as refined as it was practical, displayed more as a symbol of wealth and power than as a true keeper of time.

The miniaturization of medieval clocks gave rise to smaller mechanisms. Complication timepiece and pocket watches then made their appearance.

Sumptuous models designed to charm royal courts would quickly establish the reputation of master watchmakers.

At that precise moment, in a whirlwind of creativity and ingenuity, the history of watchmaking then becomes thehistory of watches.

From the Renaissance to the dawn of the modern world

The Renaissance represents the culmination of this movement. Clocks become watches and they were quickly adopted, as they were so practical to carry.

The Renaissance also marked the gradual shift in the center of gravity of European watchmaking. From France, following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, the most brilliant watchmaking craftsmen fled to Switzerland or England. Geneva and London then became the capitals of prestigious, precision watchmaking.

Without the European courts’ appetite for marine chronometers, the history of watchmaking would not have been the same.

In the 17th century, the world was in full swing, and the first great explorers set sail to discover it. All the navigators of the time agreed: sea travel would be much easier if they could calculate their longitude at any moment.

Motivated by the idea of national recognition (and the prospect of a reward granted by the King), the greatest minds of the time worked tirelessly to imagine and produce a perfect marine clock. It was the start of a race for mechanical precision that would never stop.

In the 19th century, as in many sectors where invention meets commerce, a true watchmaking industry. Mechanization of labor, machine tools, division of labor, and assembly-line work: Europe industrialized time measurement, which would no longer rely solely on the know-how of craftsmen and manufacturing.

The history of watches and their development since the 20th century

The appearance of the wristwatch marks the beginning of the 20th century. The pocket watch, a cherished jewel of the elegant and affluent classes, is gradually replaced by objects fastened around the wrist.

From then on, watches are worn as bracelets and never leave our wrists. Racing drivers, pilots and modern-day explorers now keep an eye on the passing of time thanks to the small dial and second hands fixed to the arm.

While the pursuit of Time had until then always retained a handcrafted character, the 20th century saw the emergence of the Japanese industry, which introduced the first quartz watch model. The concept of watchmaking as a craft was then called into question.

Now mass-produced by machines, the art of making mechanical watches and their intricate workings gradually gave way to the quartz and electronic watches we know today.

A lower price and a new mechanism: it was a hit.

This made it possible for more people to own a watch. Inevitably, Switzerland plunged into the quartz crisis in the 1970s.

Today, the technological revolution has given rise to digital watchmaking. For many, time is told only by smartphones and computer screens.

Many of our fellow humans, unless they are enthusiasts, will probably never hear of clocks, balance wheels, calibres, winding crowns, let alone escapements and Comtoise clocks.

Today, watchmaking is connected. Power reserves and complications have given way to digital technology, waterproof watches, and the chronograph has become a stopwatch. The water clock has become a timer.

Precision watchmaking is no more, and there is no longer any need for a mechanic. Nevertheless, all watches need a little servicing from time to time. Fortunately, the watchmaker's profession is not yet destined to disappear.

Even so, not all is lost. Some diehards still see incredible magic in this ancestral art and cannot bring themselves to be swept away by time and its changes, thus forgetting the image of their grandfather winding the clock and its hands.

Watches of all kinds have appeared. In leather, gold and even steel. Watches for men, watches for women, Swiss-made or made in Japan, there is something for every taste.

Watchmaking has therefore undergone many evolutions and revolutions. And it still has many bright years ahead of it.

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